Kyle Tress

So you’re thinking about getting started in skeleton and you’re ready to buy a sled. If you read my previous post, you know that I recommend waiting a season before purchasing your own equipment. However for the more curious (or deep pocketed), I’m going to answer the most popular sled questions in this post. So grab a Red Bull and let’s get started.

How much does a sled cost?

Sleds typically range from $3000 for a good beginner sled to $10,000 and up for higher-end models. My first sled cost $2000, and was built by U.S. development coach Don Hass. Today I’m racing on a sled from Swiss builder Andy Walser, purchased in 2009 for 4200 euro. Ryan Davenport, one of the most prominent sled builders in the world charges $3500 CAD but he’s currently taking a hiatus. His used sleds are now fetching considerably higher prices ($7000 USD, including mine which is currently for sale). The point is you’ll find a wide range of prices which can be intimidating to new sliders. I hope I can offer some clear advice to help you make the right decision for your needs. 

What do I need and how much should I spend?

I’ll discuss other gear in a later post, but for now let’s focus on your sled and runners. As a new slider, you’ll need an FIBT* legal sled, along with a set of FIBT runners. Nearly all sleds are legal if you go with an established builder (see list below). If you choose to go your own route, I can’t offer much advice. Sleds are basic by design but there are some obscure rules that might ground your homebuilt masterpiece before it ever sees Curve One. A few seasons ago a guy came to Lake Placid with a flexible flyer sled, with runners bolted on the bottom. He was kicked off the track and never invited back. I can’t make this stuff up.

*The FIBT: The Federation of International Bobsleigh and Tobogganing, our international governing body. They make the rules, enforce the rules, and keep us in business.

Regardless of whether you buy new or used, I’d budget $4000 for your first sled and runners. You might score a deal and pay less, but this is a good starting point.

New or Used?

Ah, the great debate. There are positives and negatives to both, but ultimately it just doesn’t matter. My first sled was new, my second and third sleds were used. I liked sliding on all of them. Just find something you’re comfortable with and go for it. If you live near a sled builder, send an email and see what they’re offering. If you know an experienced slider, ask their opinion and find out what’s on the market. If you are in a development program, ask your coach for a recommendation. Remember that the resale value of sleds is pretty high, so chances are good that if you don’t like the sled someone else will.

Tips & tricks for buying sleds

It’s a reality of the skeleton community that used equipment sometimes costs more than new equipment. You’ll hear people talk about selling a ‘fast’ sled, or a sled that won ‘such-and-such’ race in 1889. I generally dismiss this as promotional bullshit. One exception to this rule are sleds built by Davenport. Ryan has a reputation for making great sleds and runners, but he’s not currently building equipment. Expect to pay a premium for his gear. Besides that, here’s my checklist for new sleds:

• Find an experience slider with the same sled builder and ask their opinion.
• Does the price include shipping? I paid an additional $800 to ship my sled from Switzerland to New Jersey.
• Does the sled includes tape, padding, and tools?
• Ask about the repair policy. Some athletes have purchased a $3000 sled only to be charge a fortune for repairs.
• Make sure your builder is easy to contact. This can be a challenge with international builders
• Get fit for the saddle in person. If this is not possible, send detailed measurements.
• Ask if the sled comes with weight plates.

Not to be left out, here’s the checklist for used sleds:

• Ask to try the sled first, but remember the ‘you break it, you buy it’ policy applies to *nuggets.
• Ask about the history of the sled. Who was the original owner? How old is it? Were any modifications made?
• Open the sled up and check the welds, the bolts, and the pod for damage.
• Ask if the sled includes weight plates
• Flex the sled to see how it moves. Is it loose or stiff? Does it snap back to a neutral position when you let go?

*Nugget: The official name for rookie sliders, typically used during their first and second seasons

Where can I buy a sled?

Here is a list of sled builders and their websites (if available).

• Davenport Sleds – Currently on hiatus, but you can find a used Davenport sled pretty easily.
• Andy Walser – Switzerland. My current builder. Great equipment, but expensive to ship to the USA.
• White Sleds – Sled builder Bob White, located in New Jersey and producing some really nice sleds.
• Don Hass – Lake Placid, New York. Don built my first skeleton sled and he continues to make nice stuff. Great option if you are located on the East Coast.
• Randy Parker – Utah. I don’t have much experience with Randy, but he’s popular with the Utah sliders.

Did I miss someone? contact me and I’ll add to the list.

Get sliding

New sleds take a while to break in and there is a definite adjustment period any time you switch equipment — get sliding! Take pride in your new

baby

sled and treat it well. Give it a name. Buy a cover for it. Blow dry the rain and snow out of it when you come home from sliding. Remember that it takes you safely to the bottom of a mile-long ice track in less than sixty seconds. It deserves your respect!

I hope this article has been helpful. If it has, please consider donating $20.14 to keep me writing and sliding. You should also follow me on twitter for more skeleton and personal updates. Thanks for reading, and happy sliding!